Culinary Revolution: Did You Know About Parmentier's Potato Legacy?
- QueenEco
- Aug 5, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Jan 23
While a bowl of fries is now as commonplace as breathing air worldwide, did you know that potatoes were once considered fit only for pigs in France? In fact, they were even thought to be toxic! Antoine Parmentier’s efforts turned this misunderstood root into a staple in French cuisine and beyond. And it all started in the eighteenth century, in the nowadays chic neighbourhood of Neuilly-sur-Seine adjacent to Paris's 16th arrondissement, sharing the Bois de Boulogne park.
The Journey of the Potato
Originating from South America, the potato arrived in Europe in the 16th century. It was introduced to Europe by Spaniards, who brought it back from the Inca Empire, landing in Spain in 1534. By 1588, the potato made its way to Austria, where the botanist Clusius spread it throughout the German states. By the 18th century, the potato had grown in popularity and was cultivated all over Europe. Spain, Ireland, and England quickly incorporated it into their diets. Meanwhile, most other European countries grew it primarily as food for domesticated pigs, and Sweden used it as an ingredient in making cheap Swedish brandy. However, in France, the potato faced suspicion and fear, with the French not trusting this new food.
The Food Hierarchy
Historically, dietary preferences were strongly influenced by religious beliefs, which held that foods associated with the heavens (or the sky) were superior. Fruits from orchards and birds were thus esteemed and served at the tables of royals and aristocrats, occupying the highest tier in the food hierarchy.
Conversely, foods grown in the soil or underground, such as carrots and other root vegetables, were deemed inferior. Potatoes, in particular, were believed to be poisonous and unfit for human consumption, relegated to feeding pigs and other animals. This unfounded fear spread widely, leading the French Parliament in 1748 to outlaw potato cultivation, mistakenly associating the vegetable with leprosy.
The Potato Revolution
Born in 1737, Antoine Parmentier experienced a transformative journey with potatoes during his service in the Seven Years' War (1756-1763). Captured by the Prussians, Parmentier and his fellow prisoners were primarily fed potatoes. Over the three years of his captivity, he observed no adverse effects from the diet and came to appreciate the nutritional value of the humble tuber. Under the Prussian leadership, potatoes became a staple, helping Prussia to avoid the mass starvation that plagued other regions due to the French blockade of grain imports.
Upon returning to France in 1763 and working as a pharmacist at the Hôtel des Invalides in Paris, Parmentier began advocating for the potato's acceptance, especially during the late 18th-century food shortages. He was convinced of its potential to alleviate hunger due to its ease of cultivation and its ability to serve as a viable alternative to grain (wheat) during times of famine.
Despite Parmentier's efforts, potatoes faced significant opposition. They were still illegal, and French economist François Quesnay criticized potato farming, claiming it barely supported farmers while harming their health. Additionally, French clergy rejected potatoes, arguing that their absence from the Bible was evidence of divine disapproval. Despite these challenges, Parmentier's advocacy eventually led to the widespread acceptance and cultivation of potatoes in France, marking the beginning of what is now known as the Potato Revolution.
Some years later, in 1770, France faced another failed harvest, and people were more receptive to new ideas. The conversation about potatoes began to spread, and attitudes started to shift. Parmentier wrote an influential essay on the virtues of the potato and won a contest pitching it as a reliable substitute for "ordinary food" during "times of necessity." His efforts paid off in 1772 when the Paris Faculty of Medicine declared the potato edible. Though finally legal in France, the potato remained unpopular.
Early Influencer Marketing: Parmentier's Culinary Campaign
To further promote the potato, Parmentier published a book in 1777 titled Advice to Good Housewives of Cities and Countryside, on the Best Way to Make Their Bread. Despite these efforts, convincing the French to incorporate potatoes into their diets and encouraging farmers to cultivate them proved challenging. Parmentier's marketing and advocacy were pivotal in changing perceptions, but widespread acceptance would take more time.
To improve the potato's image, Parmentier hosted dinner parties for prominent scientists and public figures. On October 29, 1778, for instance, he invited Benjamin Franklin and chemist Antoine Lavoisier to the Hôtel des Invalides. There, they baked bread from potato flour in the bakery ovens. On November 1, the guests gathered at the governor's table at Les Invalides to sample the bread and approximately twenty potato-based dishes. Although the taste was mediocre, the event was reported by the Journal de Paris as "the most important discovery of the century." This publicity stunt allowed Parmentier to publish The Perfect Baker or Complete Treatise on Manufacturing & the Bread Trade and to open his baking school in 1780, furthering his mission to integrate potatoes into French cuisine.
Royal Endorsement
Despite prevailing doubts, Parmentier successfully persuaded Louis XVI in 1785 to grant him a piece of royal land—approximately 2 hectares in the plain of Sablons (Fine Sand) in Neuilly, to the west of Paris, between Porte Maillot and Rue d'Orléans. Known for its poor suitability for traditional crops, this sandy soil was ideal for potato cultivation, a fact Parmentier understood well as an agronomist and horticulturist.
On August 24, 1786, to express his gratitude, Parmentier presented Louis XVI with a potato flower. The scene at Versailles was picturesque: Parmentier appeared triumphant with a bouquet of these delicate flowers. Louis XVI, accompanied by Marie-Antoinette and the court, was presented with the symbolic gift. Delighted, the king adorned his buttonhole with a flower and placed one in the queen's hair. Louis XVI is said to have made a legendary statement: “The kingdom will thank you one day for having found the bread of the poor.”
A Curious Contrast
This royal endorsement of the potato contrasts sharply with the infamous remark attributed to Marie-Antoinette: "Let them eat cake," though she is believed to have actually said "brioche." This statement, made in 1789 during a famine, was perceived as a callous disregard for the suffering of the poor and became a symbol of the monarchy's decadence. It fueled resentment and contributed to the revolutionary fervor that ultimately led to her execution.
In hindsight, I can’t help but wonder why Marie-Antoinette didn’t suggest, “Let them eat potato cakes” instead. After all, it was thanks to the efforts of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette—despite their initial reluctance—that potatoes eventually became a part of the French diet. If only potatoes had been embraced a bit earlier, perhaps they could have been seen as a symbol of practical support during the famines rather than a glaring reminder of the monarchy’s disconnect from the people. Who knows? Maybe potato cakes could have changed the course of history!
The Potato's Royal Debut:
With the harvest from the Sablons plain, Parmentier hosted a dinner featuring potatoes prepared in 20 different forms. This “parmentière” (the name for potatoes at the time) was now served at the royal table and even became a fashionable item. Marie-Antoinette, influenced by her dressmaker Rose Bertin, adorned her hairstyles with potato flowers, setting a trend that many courtesans soon followed.
Following Louis XVI’s advice, Parmentier implemented a final stratagem to popularize the vegetable. He had the Sablons field guarded by soldiers during the day and intentionally left it unattended at night. The idea was to project an image that the field contained something very valuable destined for the royal table, igniting the curiosity of the villagers, who then wanted to steal the forbidden crop. This strategy worked well, as people, aware of the Court's new fad, always desired the forbidden.
This became a successful "viral marketing campaign" of the early days!
Parmentier’s Legacy: From Prejudice to Popularity
Supported by the king, Parmentier triumphed over entrenched prejudices.
Parmentier continued his campaign for the potato, even having a book printed with the king's support just days before the French Revolution erupted.
The potato, once considered fit only for pigs and a cause of leprosy, transformed into a "food of the people" during the Revolution. It was hailed as a beacon of hope for the common folk by the king of France just before his execution. However, the potato’s journey to becoming a widely accepted staple was gradual. In an era without the internet or social media, spreading messages and gaining acceptance took much longer. The efforts of many priests and institutions growing potatoes in their gardens across the country played a crucial role in its eventual popularity. It wasn’t until 1840 that the potato became a common food product in the French diet.
Today, numerous potato-based dishes bear his name or are inspired by his contributions. Examples include "Hachis Parmentier," a comforting dish made with mashed potatoes and ground meat, and "Pommes Parmentier," which features diced and sautéed potatoes. Perhaps next time you’re in France, you should add these dishes to your must-try list.
A Lasting Tribute: Parmentier and Neuilly-sur-Seine
Parmentier's impact is commemorated in the coat of arms of Neuilly-sur-Seine, where three potato flowers symbolize his significant contribution to French cuisine and his spirit of innovation and perseverance. This enduring tribute is why, even today, these flowers remain a prominent feature of Neuilly’s emblem.
Located behind the Arc de Triomphe, Neuilly-sur-Seine is adjacent to Paris's 16th arrondissement, sharing the Bois de Boulogne park. While it is often viewed by Parisians as another arrondissement, like the 16th or 7th, Neuilly is actually an independent city in its own right, adjoining Paris. You can visit by taking Metro Line 1 and exiting at Les Sablons, which is the third station from Charles de Gaulle-Étoile on the Champs-Élysées (a 5-minute ride).
Parmentier passed away in 1813 in Paris and is buried at Père-Lachaise Cemetery in the 20th.
The Statue of Antoine Parmentier
In 1886, to celebrate the centenary of the Parmentier field, the Place Parmentier was named, and a statue of Parmentier, created by Neuilly sculptor Adrien Gaudez, was installed. Gaudez, a former Neuilly resident, notable artist, and friend of Rodin, sculpted the agronomist studying potatoes.
The bronze statue was first unveiled in March 1888 on Place de l'Hôtel de Ville. For the bicentenary of Parmentier’s birth in 1937, it was moved to Place Parmentier. However, in 1942, it was removed and melted down by the Germans during World War II.
In 1981, thanks to a bronze reduction of Adrien Gaudez’s original work, a new statue was reconstituted and placed opposite the Town Hall.
In September 2023, after a visit to the Atelier Chevalier for cleaning and refinishing, the statue of Antoine Parmentier made its return to a place of historical significance.
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